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Antaresia stimsoni (Stimson's Python) Caresheet
Also known as the large blotched python

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Housing Temperature Furnishings Acquiring Feeding Handling Medical Breeding

A. stimsoni was described by Smith in 1985 : prior to this , they had been considered to be A. childreni. They have a wide distribution, ranging from Western Australia, across South Australia, Northern Territory, Queensland, and Northern inland New South Wales.

Stimsoni rarely grow longer than one metre, and the males are, unusually in Australian pythons, larger than the females. They also have 150 very sharp teeth. These small pythons range in colour from a quite drab dark tan background, with dull maroon or brown smooth edged blotches, to a very light background, with dark reddish blotches. They are generally a good natured snake, although they can be a little nippy on occasion.

Stimsoni are egg layers, and the females brood their eggs, which are laid approximately 115 days after mating. The eggs are incubated for about 50 days, although this can vary, depending on the temperature. Hatchlings may slit the egg, and remain inside it for another 24 hours. During this time, they are absorbing the remainder of the yolksac, and this is perfectly natural.

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Housing

If you're going to get a Stimson's python, first of all, do some research on their requirements. When you're ready, set up the cage for your reptile. Correct living conditions are important to the health of your snake. You can either build or purchase your snake's cage.

Temperature

Test the heating and lighting. Is the thermostat accurate? Are the heating bulbs out of reach of the animal, or are there mesh covers on them? Some snakes hang on the lights, and burn themselves.

My three stimsoni have a range of about 23 C to 34 C in their cages, and seem perfectly happy, moving from place to place as they please. It is important that the animal to be able to thermo-regulate.

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Furnishings

Is the cage big enough for the snake, and will it remain large enough as it grows? A plastic plant, or a log or rock will add interest. They'll also give the snake something to rub against when it is shedding.

You'll need a water bowl, large enough to fit the animal and an equivalent amount of water. Only have it half full, so that if the snake gets into it, water will not be spilt. Make sure the bowl is untippable. Use rainwater or springwater rather than chemically treated tapwater.

A snake needs a hiding place where it can go to feel secure. Try to have two such places in your cage, so that it can choose. One can be in a warm area, and the other in the cooler area.

Substrata can be newspaper, butcher's paper, "Breeder's Choice" Kitty Letter, or whatever else you find suitable. I've used newspaper covered with white paper and "Breeder's Choice", which is recycled paper pellets, and found them both satisfactory.

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Acquiring your Stimson's Python

Now you're all set up, and ready to acquire your snake! You might already have chosen it at a dealer's and it's being held for you, or you're going shopping now. If you are going to have just the one snake, as a pet, then it doesn't matter if it's a male or female - there is no difference in appearance.

When you find an animal you like the look of, handle it, and see how it reacts. Does it move around, flicking its tongue, or is it hanging limply in your hands? Does it look clean, healthy, and bright-eyed? What are the cage conditions like? Are there any signs of mites?

If you're not happy with the way a snake looks, don't buy it, especially if you feel sorry for it, hard though it may seem. You want a healthy snake, from a reputable source. Perhaps your local Herp. Society can help to you find one, or you can talk to a friend who keeps reptiles.

Once you've found your snake, and have taken it home, put it in the pre-heated cage, ensuring it has a hide and fresh water, and leave it alone for a few days, to settle into its new home. Yes, I know you want to handle your pet, but it's for the good of the snake!

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Feeding

The supplier will probably have told you when the animal last ate, and what its diet has been. Usually, this will be mice of the relevant size for your snake, pinky mice for hatchling, various larger sizes for older snakes. I vary the diet of my stimsoni, sometimes feeding them rats, sometimes mice, but not all pythons will accept both. My adult pair have even accepted pinky rabbits! If yours won't, don't worry - as long as it gets entire feed animals, then the diet will be fine for it.

It is best not to handle your python for at least 48 hours after a meal, or it may regurgitate. If it does, don't offer it more food for about two weeks. It's easy to overfeed small pythons, as they tend to be quite greedy, and will usually take anything offered.

An adult stimsoni will take a couple of adult mice every four weeks, or one mouse fortnightly. Hatchlings will eat one pinkie a week for the first couple of months, then perhaps two pinkies every eight to ten days for a few more months, then they can eat a little less frequently.

In nature, snakes may go several months without food, so if they refuse a meal or two, don't worry too much. If the snake becomes emaciated, or goes for a long period without feeding, then of course you will need the help of a good herp Vet.

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Handling

Most stimsoni can be handled, as they are quite a placid snake, although a few individuals may be somewhat nippy.

Once you've let your snake settle into its new home, you can take it out for a few minutes. Don't grab it suddenly, but don't hesitate too long either. Just gently pick it up, supporting its weight with your other hand. The snake should move around your hands freely, flicking its tongue, and showing interest in its surroundings.

It is best not to handle a snake more than once a day, as they can become stressed by too much handling. Don't keep it out too long, if you can feel the body temperature dropping.

If you're sitting quietly reading a book, or watching TV, your python may like to rest on your shoulders or lap, and it's a good way to let it learn that you are safe to be with. One of mine likes to sleep under my t-shirt.

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Medical

Since I'm not a vet, all I can say here is that if your snake becomes unwell, turn up the heating in its cage, which often helps. Take it to a vet as soon as you can. Respiratory infections are common with pythons. At the very least, consult with a more experienced herpkeeper - you definitely don't want to lose your reptilian friend.

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Breeding

Another subject with which I'm no expert. There is an excellent article by Brian Barnett on breeding small pythons, which is worth reading. Also on the site is information about egg incubation.

Pythons may refuse food for the entire breeding season. Females
will not eat until the hatchlings appear, if they are allowed to incubate their eggs.

If you are lucky enough to hatch your snakes, any hatchlings are best kept in individual accommodation, in a warm, escapeproof environment. Remember, pythons are escape fiends!

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